"KOTHALIGAD FORT" visible in the rain mist. Shaped l;ike a ship's funnel.
Having "Solo toured" most parts of the globe and having quit the exciting world of "Sea-Sailing" as a "Marine Engineer" on "Ocean ships" i decided to take up the hobby of "Trekking"."Trekking" was convenient as well as a "Stress buster" for my seditary life in Mumbai,a couch potato life-style, post retirement from the hectic shipping Industry.At age 49 trekking does prove a bit difficult as it causes great physical strain and i quote my favourite boxer Muhammed Ali on his returning from the boxing ring at the age of 40 ,considered old age in the boxing profession. Quote,"I am at an age where the mind says yes but the body says no"! On Sunday(23-8-2009)i went on my fourth consecutive track this year with "B.N.H.S(Bombay Natural History society)" group of trekkers.
Getting into "Trekking Fitness" !
Thought of going on my mo-bike upto Dadar T.T, parking the bike at the "Pay&Park" enclosure" and catching the "B.N.H.S Bus" near "Chandu halwai" but ironically it poured cats and dogs on my departure from home, hence quickly changed my agenda and took the humble bus to Dadar T.T along with an umbrella reachind Dadar T.T at 0610 hrs.. It was the day of "Ganesh Chaturthi" a very auspicious day for Hindus, especially Maharashtrian Hindus since on this day the elephant god Ganesh is brought into their homes and the religious ceremonies commence until the immersion of the idol.There were few trekkers due to the "Ganesh Chaturthi festival" as also some familiar faces which included a veteran trekker along with his family and the regular trekkers,Mr Jayesh Shah and Mr Sunil Bidadar, hence, the journey was intermingled with conversation and discussions. En-route, we collected a few other trekkers including some foreigners (Non-Indian citizens)belonging to some "NGO'S" on a study tour of India.We finally reached the village of Ambivli about 75 Kms from Mumbai on the "Bhimashanker hills route" east of Karjat .After alighting the bus at Ambivli village began our long arduous trekking to "Kothaligad Hill Fort".
Village
It was a walk through lush green forests and rubbled broadened roads with a pair of village stray dogs accompanying us throughout our trek, something bizarre and strange. These trekking pathways had been recently broadened as a road is to be constructed ,connecting mainland Karjat village of Ambivli to "Peth Village" which is situated at the base of "Kothaligad Fort"."Kothaligad Fort" is historical and i am writing about the "Trekking " aspect for future trekkers since the historical significance can be read at leisure in other "Encyclopedia search engines" in the age of "Internet" or normal history books .Trekking with the "B.N.H.S Group" has the advantages of being amongst the company of esteemed hobby as well as professional "Naturalists" , qualified wild-life guides and experienced trekkers. With the "B.N.H.S Group" trekking also has the added incentive of upgrading one's nature knowledge or simply learning the rudiments of the forests and its environment through walks along the forested hills.Spotting wild-life, birds, insects, amphibians ,fish or reptiles in a forested region requires a mixture of experience as well as luck. I myself know this from sheer indulgence in "Air-gun shooting" as a teenager in the forests of suburban Mangalore during the 1970's before i converted into a total "wild-Life pacifist",pathologically against killing or poaching of our precious and ever dwindling wild-life.The trek conductor was Mr Dheeraj. Patil, more of a botanist who was assisted by a volunteer Mr Pal(MSc Entomology), a practically experienced and knowledgeable wild-life guardian who was familiar with these forests and the trek route.We passed a gushing waterfall and the sound of this flow of pure water crashing against the rocks on its journey towards the bottom was real soothing to our city dwellers hearing, accustomed to "City noises".
Extremely lucky to spot and study this "CHAMELEON"
On the way Mr Pal spotted a frog and close to it was a chameleon, a rare lizard to be spotted in the wild forests, even among professional trekkers and naturalists. We all went crazy with camera's clicking and Mr Pal explaining the characteristics of this unique reptile with me video-taping the entire proceedings.Finally, we left the chameleon in its original location from where we picked it, a very important aspect of "Wild-life specimen collection", either for photography and study or "Venom milking" as in captured snakes.B.N.H.S guide Mr D.Patil showed us a rare "Karvy plant" which had not yet flowered and was just in the process of flowering, a process which is repeated after 8 years.I had missed the special "B.N.H.S" karvy flower trek which was conducted in the "Sanjay Gandhi National Park" in September 2008 due to personal commitments and hence was really lucky to view this freak plant blooming late in the season, while, all or most of its species had already flowered and died out, ready to bloom again in 2017! The last time this plant species bloomed was in 2000! Half-way to "Peth Village" we came across a plateau which offered a scenic view of "Kothaligad Fort"and the dense forested ravines below the hill fort.Having lived in Mumbai City for 41 years i was surprised to see such abundant forested land within a 3 hrs road journey from Mumbai, something to be seen and experienced to be believed. Filmed this scenic location on "Video camera" for posterity and "Blogs" for other trekkers, since life itself is composed of memories, ambitions and experiences. The route to "Peth Village" took us about 2 hrs as we walked at a leisurely pace, besides there were a few laggards in our group including myself,something that utterly surprised me, a sports and outdoors fanatic since childhood.The last kilometer towards "Peth Village" was through green paddy field plantations with the entire village nestling scenically at the base of "Kothaligad Fort"."Peth Village" defines the typical Maharashtrian Adivasi village with the house walls built of a mixture of bamboo and Karvy tree wood bark cemented with cattle dung and roofed with tiles, something i observed for the first time in my life, thanks to explanation by our guide on our previous trek to "Sagargad Fort" which also had a similar, but smaller village.
"Karvy Flowering plant.
The final trek to the summit of the fort began from the base of "Peth Village", a steep climb which took us approximately an hour with myself cursing my stupidity of trekking hills at an advanced age of 49 , a age when i have the mind of a youthful teenager but the body of a retired race-horse! Finally made it to the "Pinnacle base" and rested for a while, examining the caves and the temple finally climbing up the "pinnacle steps" to reach the "Pinnacle plateau summit" at approximately 1300hrs.The dogs that accompanied us rested near the caves awaiting the return journey, a very strange behaviour since we didn't offer them any food, besides, they were absolutely docile, akin to pet dogs. The view as usual was splendid as it is from the top of every hill-fort and having done three hill fort climbs in a span of 2 months it was not a novelty surprise anymore.We rested for about an hour at the summit, had our packaged lunch, removed photographs and videos, finally starting our descent at approximately 1400 hrs.Call it "Psychology" of relief on reaching the summit or sheer energy relief after a quick snack of oranges at the summit ,since, i felt totally fresh akin to a spring chicken on my descent towards "Peth Village".Took numerous photo's of the "Adivasi village houses" at Peth village as these are unique and hope the student "NGO Foreigners" noticed the difference between these village houses and the "Slum" houses of Mumbai city.Ultimately, India's conservation effort and preservation of forests is dependent on villagers living in the forests, as they are the ultimate humans who are in direct contact with nature and its environment unlike most "armchair nature conservationists" who preach from the confines of luxurious city living.Conservation of the tiger and other rapidly dwindling wild-life is totally dependent on these forest dwellers living on the periphery of jungles all over India.We didn't experience any rainfall throughout the trek although it did get very cloudy at times and the view of "Kothaligad" was hidden by clouds on our return journey to the mid-way plateau ravine gorge.We finally reached our bus at the village at approx 1700 hrs with one of the dogs even entering the bus to make the journey to Mumbai.We shooed the dog out of our bus and finally departed towards Mumbai, encountering a massive traffic jam near Everad Nagar Sion/Chembur highway, a regular blockage of traffic in this area since we experienced the same on our previous return trips from treks.We finally reached Dadar TT at approx 1945 hrs and as usual Mr Jayesh Shah was kind enough to give me a lift up to Century bazaar.This would be my last trek of the month and unless something exciting crops up in the next schedule of trekking itinerary on the "B.N.H.S Menu" i intend taking a "BREAK" from the "Trekking World".Planning for a "Solo Back-packers tour" and hope i discover a exciting city or country.Having done "SOLO CITY backpacker TOURING" and "GROUP HILL TREKKING" i feel there is a World of difference between the two, akin to a 100 metres sprinter and a marathon runner, both requiring different modes and physical fitness levels.
"KOTHALIGAD FORT" trek in 2009.
Kothaligad Fort partly hidden
amongst the " MONSOON CLOUDS"
One " Black Pearl beer" for the train journey from Madurai to Bengaluru.
In " Vaigai No 1 Sports club bar" in Madurai.
Meenakshi Amman Temple- East Raja Tower wing.
" Madurai Halwa " sold in shop near Meenakshi Amman Temple.
Cheap and excellent " Madurai Halwa ".
Devotees queueing for darshan at Meenakshi Amman Temple in Madurai.
A view of Meenakshi Amman Temple from the outside.
A view of a section of Madurai city in close proximity to Meenakshi Amman Temple.
Exotic local Tamil restaurant " Pondimuniandi Mess " near Thirumalai Nayakkar Palace.
Everything right from hotels name to menu was in Tamil language.
Tamil folk song and dance in Thirumalai Nayakkar Palace.
This folk dance recital was under the Dance Hall wing of this palatial palace.
Dome of Dance Hall of Thirumalai Nayakkar Palace in Madurai.
View of the pillars and courtyard of Thirumalai Nayakkar Palace.
Seafarer/ Blogger / Traveller Rudolph A.Furtado in deep thought in the courtyard of indescribable Thirumalai Nayakkar Palace.
American College Higher secondary school in Madurai.
Madurai Medical college
In close proximity to Gandhi Memorial museum
Vaigai river flows through city of Madurai
Albert Victor bridge over Vaigai river in Madurai.
Madurai Union Club
In close proximity to Gandhi Museum.
Gandhi literature society in Gandhi Memorial museum estate.
Various books , handicrafts on display and for sale.
Gandhi Memorial museum
Madurai Railway Junction locality.
" Idli/ Chutney/ Sambar" served in Madurai.
In Madura all dishes are served on a banana leaf and with " Idli" there are 4 different chutneys along with Sambar.Do not leave Madurai without tasting its Idli and Dosa's.
Alanganallur Jallikattu shown " LIVE" on giant screen in Alanganallur Town.
Alanganallur Jallikattu is the last of the 3 Jallikattu 's held in Madurai district and the grandest.
Jackfruits sold in Alanganallur Town on Alanganallur Jallikattu carnival day.
One of the sweetest jackfruits i ate during my lifetime.
Bull returning home from Alanganallur Jallikattu in AlanganallurTown. .
View of chaos and competition at Alanganallur Jallikattu.
Bull Tamer hugging to the hump of bull while another bull refuses to leave Jallikattu circuit
Alanganallur Jallikattu in progress.
A view of Alanganallur town coconut/ banana platation from our terrace viewpoint.
Farmland vegetation.Hope doesnt develop into a concrete jungle in the future.
A scene on Alanganallur Jallikattu circuit.
A bull refusing to get up while another bull is running towatds " Collection Point " having been released from the Vaadivasal.
View of the barricaded Jallikattu circuit leading to the " Bull Collection Point".
Looks a deceptively calm road but sadly two spectators were killed at the Alanganallur Jallikattu when they were gored by bulls returning back to the " Collection Point".
Bulls heading back to " Collection Point " after being released from Vaadivasal.
View of "Jallikattu Arena" and public stadium from our terrace viewpoint.
New batch of " Bull Tamers" arriving at Alanganallur Jallikattu.
Every hour a new batch of " Bull Tamers " are rotated so every bull tamer gets a chance to participate in the sport.
Police force always ready on Alanganallur Jallikattu circuit.
Wayward bulls are guided back to the " Collection Point"..
" Temporary Stadium " for common public at Alanganallur Jallikattu. Next to our building terrace.
There was a unbelievable queue to enter this temporary Jallikattu viewing stadium.Every hour there was a rotation in change of spectators.A spectator once inside this stadium could view the Jallikattuonly for 1 hr and then vacate to allow others in the endless queue..
Opening ceremony of Alanganallur Jallikattu on Thursday (16/1/2025) at 0800 hrs.
On terrace of building having a excellent view of Alanganallur Jallikattu arena and venue.
Luck favoured me and on payment of Rs 1000 was allowed onto the terrace of a private building to observe the Jallikattu.
At Alanganallur Jallikattu sitting on the bamboo scaffold of the " Double Barricade Fence".
When i first arrivdd at the Jallikattu venue early morning to my horror this was where i squezed myself for a view of the Jallikattu.
" Sree Sabrees " Vegetarian hotel in Madurai.
Excellent vegetarian food.Situated opposite " Pearls hotel " .
A 23 Km travel by local bus from Madurai to Palamedu.
" No 57" bus from Periyar Bus Terminus to Palamedu town.
Bull being taken home after competing in Palamedu Jallikatttu.
The horns of the bull are tied in a white cloth while returning home after the competition.
Bulls arriving at Palamedu Jallikattu venue throughout the day and afternoon.
Palamedu Jallikattu began in the morning and would end at 1800 hrs in the evening.
" Massala Boiled eggs", a delicacy at Palamedu Jallikattu.
Flower and vegetables shops in Palamedu town during Jallikattu carnival.
Successful " Bull Tamer " at Palamedu Jallikattu.
Hugging the hump of the bull and bringing it to a standstill.A motorcycle was one of the big prizes .
" COLLECTION POINT " of bulls competing in Palamedu Jallikattu.
After being released from the " Vaadivasal " the bull runs down the barricaded street to this barricaded ground where its handlers rein it with ropes.
Palamedu Jallikatttu. End of 1hr time allotted for a group of " Bull Tamers ".
After every hour a new group of tamers enter the Jallikattu arena and the police escort truck maintains discipline as well as in escorting wayward bulls to the " Bull Collection Point " .
Prizes exhibited on grandstand at Palamedu Jallikattu.
Bull tamers gathered around Vaadivasal for bull to jump out into Jallikattu Arena.
Palamedu Jallikattu on Wednesday (15/1/2025)
A view of " Palamedu Jallikattu ".
Housefull crowd on the temporary stands at Palamedu Jallikattu.
Among Avaniyapuram, Palamedu and Alanganallur Jallikattu venues in Madurai it is Palamedu Jallikattu that has a temporary stadium capacity for maximum crowds .
" DOUBLE BARRICADE " fencing of the Jallikattu Road at Palamedu Jallikattu on Wednesday (15/1/2025)
Outer barricade is of steel while inner barricade is bamboo scaffolding.Common local spectators sit or peep through the bamboo scaffolding.
Local breed cows and calves at Palemadu Jallikattu venue
These male calves would later develop into Jallikattu Bulls at the age of 3 years and professional training.
" Palamedu Jallikattu " shown " LIVE" outside the venue.
Bull arriving on truck at Palamedu Jallikattu venue.
Wealthy bull owners send their prized expensive bulls by trucks akin to racehorses .
Bull being led by its handler/ owner to Palamedu Jallikattu Venue.
These Jallikattu bulls are absolutely ferocious requiring at least 2 to even 4 people guiding it by ropes along the common road to the Jallikattu venue.
" Bull" being brought to Palamedu Jallikattu by its owner and handlers.
Almond hot milk at a cafe in Madurai.
Love the manner in which tea, coffeee and milk is mixed by the kitchen employees in Madurai.A culinary exhibition.
" Murugan Idli veg " famous vegetarian restaurant in Madurai.
Situated just opposite " Pothys".
" Pothys" departmental store in Madurai.
Famous for clothing products.
Ambulances on alert at Avaniyapuram Jallikattu.
Trajedy occured at Avaniyapuram Jallikattu where a young 22 year old bull tamer Shri Naveen.Kumar was gored to death by a bull in the Jallikattu arena.A extremely dangerous " Human - Animal" extreme sport.Bulls also succumb to injuries.
Housefull spectators at Avaniyapuram Jallikattu on Tuesday (14/1/2025)
Spectators watching from the buidings facing the double barricaded road on which Avaniyapuram Jallikattu is conducted
" Bull Tamers " squatting in a queue awaiting thier turn into Avaniyapuram Jallikattu arena.
" Bull Tamer" trying to hold on to hump of bull at Avaniyapuram Jallikattu.
" Police Escort Van" used in Avaniyapuram Jallikattu to guide wayward bulls to " Collection Point".
View of Avaniyapuram Jallikattu venue with view of " V.I.P Stage" and Spectators platform.
" Bull Tamers " surrounding the Vaadivasal awaiting entry of the bull at Avaniyapuram Jallikattu.
View of the Avaniyapuram Jallikattu arena.
Common prizes to participants in Avaniyapuram Jallikattu.
A steel bucket and other kitchen items as common prizes for " Bull Tamers " and " Bull Owners " .Sponsored by business enterprises and politicians.
Bull in the centre of Avaniyapuram Jallikattu arena .
After being released from the Vaadivasal ( Gate) the bull tamers try to tame and hold on to the hump of the bull for a few meters before it runs away to the " Collection Point" at the other end of the Vaadivasal on this road.
Housefull at Avaniyapuram Jallikattu venue.
Local spectators watching through the " Double Barricade Fence".
Road barricades preventing entry of vehicles into Avaniyapuram village.
Way to Avaniyapuram Jallikattu.
Periyar Bus Terminal
All local city buses leave from here.To visit Avaniyapuram ,Palamedu and Alanganallur Jallikattu board the bus from this terminus.
On my way at dawn to Avaniyapuram Jallikattu by bus.
Early morning coffee near Periyar Bus Terminal in Madurai.
Bark of Coconut tree sold as a snack in Madurai.
Considered a good health snack.
T.E.L.C Holy Redeemers church
Lutheran church near Madurai Railway Junction.
Travelling on the " 62A" local bus in Madurai.
Old buses packed to capacity.
My first lunch in Madurai on Monday(13/1/2025).
Anandha Non Veg :- Famous for its Non- Veg food
Traditional Tamilian method of serving food at Hotel Anandha in Madurai..
Nutritious coconut juice after sightseeing Meenakshi Temple complex.
Dont leave Madurai without drinking Coconut water juice.
Vendors on the road approaching Meenakshi Temple..
My first breakfast on arrival in Madurai.
Excellent " Sada Dosa" from street side vendors on road opposite Madurai train station.
Street side South Indian vegetarian delicacies for breakfast in Madurai.
Arrival at Madurai Junction on Monday (13/1/2025).
The first train in my lifetime of train travel that had erratic arrival and departure timings at various stations from being half hour early to half hour late.Finally reached Madurai 10 minutes ahead of scheduled arrival time.Truth is stranger than fiction.
Paddy cultivation on outskirts of Madurai.
At Salem Junction purchased a common general class ticket and shifted to " General Compartment "
As usual packed with common travellers with many sleeping on the floor of the compartment.For the first time travelled a distance of more than 2 hrs in the general compartment of a long distance train.Travel educates.
Supari( Beetel Nut) plant nursery.
Scenic view of Supari plantations from the train along the railway tracks.
Sunday (12/1/2025):- Lunch not on board the " Orient Express " but on " 11021/ Dadar Ten Express"
" Chicken Biryani " lunch on the train at 1230 hrs at Hubbali train station
" Chicken Biryani" costing Rs 120 for lunch at Hubbali train station.
Cheap but just tolerable in taste for the price.
A typical Indian railway scene.Food packets being sold at Hubbali train station.
" Mumbai - Madurai" train travel.
Sunday(12/1/2025) : - The countryside cultivation in State of Karnataka .
A view from the train on my long 36 hours.Mumbai- Tirunelveli train.travel from Mumbai to Madurai by " 10121 Dadar 10 " Express.
Sunday(23/3/2009) :- Roots of a tree exposed due to road widening
Road widening creating "Soil Erosion".
Trekkers Jayeesh.A.Shah and myself(Sunday 23-8-2009).Trekking Acquaitances.
Trekking Comraderie, a good social and outdoors stress relievers.
"Spider in its web".Learning to appreciate the wonders of nature
Appreciating the study of "Entomology"
Karvy plant with "FLOWER BUDS"(Sunday 23-8-2009)
"Karvy Plant" which blooms once every 8 years.
"Owl Moth", learning the "wild-Life" of the forests while trekking.
Studying nature while trekking(sunday 23-8-2009)
Frog hidden amongst the roadside rocks
Amphibian wild-life of the forests.
The rare Chameleon spotted in the wild(Sunday 23-8-2009)
Spotting the rare chameleon was akin to spotting a tiger or leopard in the wild.WORTH THE TREK AND EFFORTS.
"Peth village" with its green rice fields .
"Peth Village" situated at the base of "Kothaligad Hill Fort"(Sunday 23-8-2009)
"Adivasi house" in "Peth Village"(Sunday 23-8-2009)
Typical "Village Houses" with bamboo/karvi bark and cattle dung reinforced walls instead of bricks or mud as used in normal houses.
Self,Rudolph.A.Furtado on the peak of "Kothaligad Fort"(Sunday 23-8-2009)
Scaling hill forts.At Kothaligad hill fort.
One of the pair of "Village dogs" that completed the entire "Ambivali to Kothaligad trek" with us!
Unbelievable! A pair of dogs followed us from Ambivali village to Kothaligad Fort and back to the bus, wanting to come to Mumbai city.First time i observed such method of "canine Behaviour" amongst "Untrained, unowned dogs".Amazing "MANS BEST FRIEND BEHAVIOUR".We never encouraged them with any food., absolutely normal trekking akin to humans.
Have circumnavigated the entire Globe at least twice through sea and ocean travel during my 23 years(1983 -2006) employment on ships in the Mercantile Merchant Navy as a "Marine Engineer Officer".Post premature retirement at age 46 from the Merchant Navy have been travelling across the Globe at my own expense and have visited 100 Country's ,a travelling "NOMAD". A "LEVEL 6" contributor to "Tripadvisor" travel site under the pseudonym "MumbaiRiders" having written 1105 reviews and receiving 640 helpful votes from "Tripadvisor" readers as on December 2024.. Have produced over 1600 video's on YouTube ..
A campaigner to "LEGALIZE SPORTS BETTING IN INDIA" through my notional sports game on "Facebook" titled "Mittoo alias mittoo the poppat" in memory of my late 22 year old pet Alexandrine parakeet "Mittoo".
Had 2 pet Long hair Persian cats "Matahari" and "Matata" and sadly "Matahari" expired in August 2020 and "Tomcat Matata" in November 2022..My cat's hilarious gimmicks prevented this bachelor from the sickness of "Writers Block".Now i am into "Animal Philanthropy" and wildlife awareness.
My " Facebook" link :- https://www.facebook.com/rudolph.furtado