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| JALLIKATTU :- HUGGING THE HUMP OF THE BULL |
So far so good. Post retirement in 2006 as a " Marine Engineer "in the shipping Industry and being successful in my second profession as a business entrepreneur helped me indulge in my passion of " Solo" travel.Have travelled a long way in "Solo" treks and travels across India and the Globe with the same documented for my own memory bank and benefit for other adventure travellers.In the months of June /July 2017 during my travel across Europe on Friday (7/7/2017) was in Pamplona in Spain and got to witness the World famous "Running of the Bulls" at the 2017-San Fermin Festival .
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| Finally, end of a 36 hour extreme travel train journey from Mumbai to Madurai.Here I am at Madurai Junction train station. |
A scene of this annual week long San Fermin "Running of the Bulls" festival at Pamplona was immortalized in the 2011 Hindi film "Zindagi Na Milegi Dobara". Read my travelogue :-https://scandinaviawesterneurope.blogspot.com/2017/06/europe-continent-solo-adventure.html . In 2024 having completed my travel across 100 Countries around the Globe as well as the entire tourist and regional sites of home country India was sad sitting idle at home with no travel plans in the New Year of January 2025. My " Stock Market" business was in the " Economic I.C.U " hospital due to a " Bull Market Crash " and a total "Bear Takeover" .What me worry ? Eureka! Spotted the missing link in my Indian tour travels. Having been to distant Spain to watch the "Running of the Bulls" in Pamplona realized i had never ever witnessed the over 2500 year old festival of "Taming of the Bulls" called "Jallikattu(Sallikattu)" in my own country, India.Decided to put behind the " 2024 Indian Stock Market Crash" episode as a business cycle calamity beyond my control and refresh my mojo by attending the " Madurai Jallikattu " and witnessing bull and human contest of skill.
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| Hotel Pearls, my residence in Madurai. |
Better late than too late ! Booked train tickets on Saturday(28/12/2024) through various permutations and adjustments along with my train ticket booking agent Shri Sachin.Jagtap as getting train tickets at last moment on Indian railways is almost impossible.Spent a quiet New Year 2025 at home anxious to be in Madurai in mid - January to witness " Jallikattu " as well as sightseeing Madurai with a stopover in Bangalore on my return journey to Mumbai .Now a brief introduction to Jallikattu culled through Internet research.
Origin and rules of the sport of "JALLIKATTU ":- MAKAR SANKRANTI" is a Hindu harvest festival celebrated all across different regions of India.This festival is known as "Lohri" in Punjab,"Uttarayan" in Gujarat ,"Poush Sankranti" in Bengal and is called " Pongal" in Tamil Nadu .In 2025 Makar Sankranti was on 14th Tuesday.Kite flying is a popular sport on Makar Sankranti day in most parts of India including my home state of Maharashtra .
In Tamil Nadu Pongal is a 3-day harvest festival celebrated by the Tamil community and is a celebration to thank the Sun, Mother Nature and various farm animals that help to contribute to a bountiful harvest.
Jallikattu(Sallikattu), also known as Eru Taḻuvuṭal and Manju-Virattu in Tamil language is a traditional sport of Tamil Nadu that is celebrated on the third day of Pongal called Mattu Pongal Day which usually falls in mid-January every year .This year Mattu Pongal was on Thursday 16th January and celebrated at Alanganallur town which was the last day of the 3 day Jallikattu festival held in Avaniyapuram,Palamedu and Alanganallur towns in Madurai district .Jallikattu name is coined from two words, Jalli (meaning silver and gold coins) and Kattu (tied). A Zebu bull,usually of the local Pulikulam or Kangayam breed is let loose among a crowd of people and whoever tames it will get the coins tied to its horn.
In practise no silver or gold coins are tied on the bulls horn but whoever subdues the bull is later awarded prizes.Traditionally village youth proved their eligibility in finding a bride through competing in Jallikattu events and proving their valour. Pulikulam or Kangayam breed of bulls is considered most suitable for the sport of Jallikattu. The bulls which win in the festival are in high demand in the market, and fetch the highest price and are also used for breeding.Unlike the San Fermin "Running of the Bulls" festival in Pamplona in Spain where the bulls are finally slaughtered at the end of the evening by the matador in the bull ring stadium here in Tamil Nadu in India the participating bulls in "Jallikattu" are not killed but subdued(tamed) by the human contestants.Vadi Manjuviraṭṭu, Vēli Viraṭṭu, Vaṭam Manjuviraṭṭu are the variants of this sport and each version of the sport has different rules.Bulls enter the competition area to face the human "Bull Tamers" through a gate called the "Vaadivasal(Tamil)" and participants shall not be permitted to stand in front of the bull’s path as they enter the frontline. They shall also not be permitted to block the bull’s exit path once they cross the arena.
The participants shall be permitted only to embrace the bulls by hanging to their hump and run along for 15 m(49 ft) by distance or 30 sec by time or else sustain three jumps off the ferocious bull.In some variations, they are disqualified if they hold onto the bull's neck, horns or tail. There may be several rules to the game depending on the region.If the contestant is thrown by the bull or falls, they lose. Some variations only allow for one contestant. If two people grab the hump, then neither person wins.
JALLIKATTU 2025 :- The first Jallikattu event of Tamil Nadu for 2025 was held on Sunday 4th January at Thatchankurichi village in the Gandarvakottai taluk of Pudukkottai district. This marks the beginning of the Pongal celebrations and the Jallikattu season in the state of Tamil Nadu.
Over 600 bulls and 350 bull-taming participants took part in this iconic event held in Thatchankurichi village, symbolizing Tamil Nadu’s rich cultural heritage.Normally upto the 1970's this sport was popular among locals only in the villages of Avaniyapuram,Palamedu and Alanganallur of Madurai district. Over the years with foreigners as well as outstation Indians from other States as spectators this animal sport spread to other villages of Tamil Nadu.With arrival of "Internet Technology" registration of bull tamers and bull owners is done on-line .In recent years "Corporate Sponsorship" for major Jallikattu events with luxury prizes has to some extent commercialized this once common rural sport of Tamil Nadu.An average sum of Rs 10-15 lakhs is spent by organizers on conducting the common Jallikattu held in small villages while the bull owner spends a average of Rs 1-2 Lakhs on rearing a Jallikattu bull which is fed a special diet as also requiring training and exercise . Last year in 2023 the sport of Jallikattu was held in over 600 village locales across Tamil Nadu proving the popularity of this agrarian cultural sport. For the events in Avaniyapuram,Palamedu and Alanganallur towns in Madurai district the online registration for "Bull Tamers" and "Bull Owners" began on Monday 6th January and closed on Tuesday 7th January through the official district website madurai.nic.in.
A total of 12,632 bulls and 5,347 bull-tamers registered online for the 2025 Jallikattu. Among the registrations, 5,786 bulls and 1,698 participants signed up for Alanganallur Jallikattu, 4,820 bulls and 1,914 participants for Palamedu Jallikattu , and 2,026 bulls and and 1,735 participants for Avaniyapuram Jallikattu .
The district administration after verifying the eligibility of the bulls and participants will issue the approved individuals online tokens featuring a QR code via email or SMS. These tokens must be downloaded and presented at the respective events for entry.Any instances of fake tokens being used by bull owners or participants would result in severe legal action by the Jallikattu authorities of that particular venue.Its a local joke that it is more possible to clear the competitive NEET exams or secure a Medical seat than get a token from the organizers to participate in the Jallikattu contests . Bull owners also have to get their participating bulls medically certified by obtaining a certificate from a Veterinary dispensary of hospitals.This veterinary fitness certificate is valid for 6 months.Bulls must be at least three years old, free of deformities or injuries, and meet a minimum height requirement of 120cm(47 Inches),excluding the hump, to qualify for Jallikattu. As for.me would be only attending the Jallikattu festival in Madurai,a 36 hour train journey from Mumbai.
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| " Periyar Bus Terminus " :- Main bus terminus for local buses in Madurai.All buses heading to Avaniyapuram, Palemadu and Alanganallur towns for the " JALLIKATTU " can be boarded at Periyar Bus Terminal. |
In Tamil Nadu Pongal is a 3-day harvest festival celebrated by the Tamil community and is a celebration to thank the Sun, Mother Nature and various farm animals that help to contribute to a bountiful harvest.
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| Travelling on a local bus in Madurai. Buses are heavily crowded . |
Jallikattu(Sallikattu), also known as Eru Taḻuvuṭal and Manju-Virattu in Tamil language is a traditional sport of Tamil Nadu that is celebrated on the third day of Pongal called Mattu Pongal Day which usually falls in mid-January every year .This year Mattu Pongal was on Thursday 16th January and celebrated at Alanganallur town which was the last day of the 3 day Jallikattu festival held in Avaniyapuram,Palamedu and Alanganallur towns in Madurai district .Jallikattu name is coined from two words, Jalli (meaning silver and gold coins) and Kattu (tied). A Zebu bull,usually of the local Pulikulam or Kangayam breed is let loose among a crowd of people and whoever tames it will get the coins tied to its horn.
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| Entrance to West Tower of Meenakshi Amman Temple. Madurai has its identity as the Temple city and Jallikattu Centre in Tamil Nadu. |
In practise no silver or gold coins are tied on the bulls horn but whoever subdues the bull is later awarded prizes.Traditionally village youth proved their eligibility in finding a bride through competing in Jallikattu events and proving their valour. Pulikulam or Kangayam breed of bulls is considered most suitable for the sport of Jallikattu. The bulls which win in the festival are in high demand in the market, and fetch the highest price and are also used for breeding.Unlike the San Fermin "Running of the Bulls" festival in Pamplona in Spain where the bulls are finally slaughtered at the end of the evening by the matador in the bull ring stadium here in Tamil Nadu in India the participating bulls in "Jallikattu" are not killed but subdued(tamed) by the human contestants.Vadi Manjuviraṭṭu, Vēli Viraṭṭu, Vaṭam Manjuviraṭṭu are the variants of this sport and each version of the sport has different rules.Bulls enter the competition area to face the human "Bull Tamers" through a gate called the "Vaadivasal(Tamil)" and participants shall not be permitted to stand in front of the bull’s path as they enter the frontline. They shall also not be permitted to block the bull’s exit path once they cross the arena.
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| At St Mary's Cathedral in Madurai. |
The participants shall be permitted only to embrace the bulls by hanging to their hump and run along for 15 m(49 ft) by distance or 30 sec by time or else sustain three jumps off the ferocious bull.In some variations, they are disqualified if they hold onto the bull's neck, horns or tail. There may be several rules to the game depending on the region.If the contestant is thrown by the bull or falls, they lose. Some variations only allow for one contestant. If two people grab the hump, then neither person wins.
"P.E.T.A" and other "Animal Rights" groups have campaigned for banning Jallikattu and were successful in getting the sport banned on and off since 2006 in a legal game of political debate and animal cruelty. Since 2017 the ban on Jallikattu has been removed by the Tamil Nadu legislature after a protest rally on Sunday 8th January 2017 by several hundreds of protesters at Chennai Marina opposing the ban on Jallikattu.
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| Landmark Masjid Town Hall Road Mosque. " Hotel Pearls " is the pink building in the distance. |
JALLIKATTU 2025 :- The first Jallikattu event of Tamil Nadu for 2025 was held on Sunday 4th January at Thatchankurichi village in the Gandarvakottai taluk of Pudukkottai district. This marks the beginning of the Pongal celebrations and the Jallikattu season in the state of Tamil Nadu.
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| Lunch in a common local restaurant where everything right from the name to the menu of this tiny restaurant was in Tamil Language. Excellent cheap connoisseur non - veg food.Here I am eating quail instead of chicken. In Madurai the plushest as well as common local restaurants serve food on a banana leaf. In plush hotels the banana leaf is serven on a plate while here food is directly served on the banana leaf which is the plate itself. Travel Educates. |
Over 600 bulls and 350 bull-taming participants took part in this iconic event held in Thatchankurichi village, symbolizing Tamil Nadu’s rich cultural heritage.Normally upto the 1970's this sport was popular among locals only in the villages of Avaniyapuram,Palamedu and Alanganallur of Madurai district. Over the years with foreigners as well as outstation Indians from other States as spectators this animal sport spread to other villages of Tamil Nadu.With arrival of "Internet Technology" registration of bull tamers and bull owners is done on-line .In recent years "Corporate Sponsorship" for major Jallikattu events with luxury prizes has to some extent commercialized this once common rural sport of Tamil Nadu.An average sum of Rs 10-15 lakhs is spent by organizers on conducting the common Jallikattu held in small villages while the bull owner spends a average of Rs 1-2 Lakhs on rearing a Jallikattu bull which is fed a special diet as also requiring training and exercise . Last year in 2023 the sport of Jallikattu was held in over 600 village locales across Tamil Nadu proving the popularity of this agrarian cultural sport. For the events in Avaniyapuram,Palamedu and Alanganallur towns in Madurai district the online registration for "Bull Tamers" and "Bull Owners" began on Monday 6th January and closed on Tuesday 7th January through the official district website madurai.nic.in.
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| " The Victoria Edward Hall" built in 1912 and formerly Town Hall of Madurai.Now it is a theatre called " Thanga Regal Theatre " screening latest Tamil movies. Town Hall road got its name from "Victoria Edward Hall", a landmark near Madurai railway junction. |
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| A temple next to the "Jallikattu" venue on Thiruparagundram main road in Avaniyapuram on Tuesday(14/1/2025). Pongal festival begins from today and also the "Jallikattu" festival of Avaniyapuram village. |
The district administration after verifying the eligibility of the bulls and participants will issue the approved individuals online tokens featuring a QR code via email or SMS. These tokens must be downloaded and presented at the respective events for entry.Any instances of fake tokens being used by bull owners or participants would result in severe legal action by the Jallikattu authorities of that particular venue.Its a local joke that it is more possible to clear the competitive NEET exams or secure a Medical seat than get a token from the organizers to participate in the Jallikattu contests . Bull owners also have to get their participating bulls medically certified by obtaining a certificate from a Veterinary dispensary of hospitals.This veterinary fitness certificate is valid for 6 months.Bulls must be at least three years old, free of deformities or injuries, and meet a minimum height requirement of 120cm(47 Inches),excluding the hump, to qualify for Jallikattu. As for.me would be only attending the Jallikattu festival in Madurai,a 36 hour train journey from Mumbai.
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| A "Double Barrier" to separate spectators from the bulls that run along this road as they are individually released from the "VAADIVASAL ( Entry Gate) and face their "Human Tamers". The outer fence is made of Steel while the spectator inner fence is made of bamboo scaffolding. |
Saturday (11/1/2025) Departure Mumbai to Madurai Junction :- At 2130 hrs boarded compartment S2/ Berth 49 of " 11021/ Dadar Ten Express".A pleasant.journey on a train with very.clean toilets.It was cold at night and a large group of young pharmaceutical students mostly ladies were in the compartment.Next day reached Bangalore at 2130 hrs which was supposed to be the end of my ticket journey.Departure Bangalore requested the T.C to extend my ticket to Madurai but the same was not possible as entire train was housefull.Air tickets to Madurai were selling at Rs 17,000 during the Pongal festival,unbelievable but true.He told me to shift to compartment S-3 which had a berth vacancy upto Salem and would later have to alight the train at Salem Junction and book a general class ticket and finally change my coach to general compartment for the short 4 hrs journey.Having arrived early at platform. No 14 at Dadar railway station inquiring directions made acquaintances with young gentleman Mr G.D.Janarthanan,employed in Mumbai and travelling to Madurai for Pongal festival.He explained me on-line railway booking and at times total strangers can be of great help.
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| In Tamil Nadu the Jallikattu is State sponsored and here at the Avaniyapuram Jallikattu the security consisted of almost 3800 policemen .The crowds and police force was to be seen to be believed.A absolutely popular local sport with a fan following akin to T20 Cricket. |
It was a cold sleepless night of train journey .For the first time in my lifetime of train travel had travelled on a train that arrived at stations much earlier than the confirmed train timetable.Arrived at Salem junction at 0300 hrs,half an hour earlier and thanks to a co - passenger that I realized the same, utterly surprised.Quickly packed my luggage and alighted the train heading straight to the ticket booking counter.After purchasing the ticket to Madurai costing Rs 90 headed to the common unreserved " General Compartment" and thankfully got seating accommodation although a few passengers were sprawled on the floor in deep slumber.Travel educates.First time during a lifetime of train travel in India had travelled in a train that at times was half an hour ahead of scheduled timetable at a station as well as late by the same time after another 2 station's,unbelievingly true.Finally arrived at Madurai Junction at 0800 hrs, ten minutes ahead of the scheduled arrival timetable.Alighting from the train made my way past the bus stand outside the station and breakfast was " Sada Dosa" at a pavement dhaba.
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| View of the "V.I.P Platform"of Avaniyapuram Jallikattu held on Tuesday(14/1/2025) which was the start of the 3 day Pongal festival in Tamil Nadu. The "VAADIVASAL(Entry Gate)" for the bulls is just below the "V.I.P Platform" akin to a narrow tunnel.The team of "BULL TAMERS" all wearing similar coloured T-Shirts with different numerical numbers akin to any team sports game surround the "Vaadivasal".As a bull smeared with sandalwood paste is released out of the "Vadivasal" these bull tamers try their skill and strength to hold onto the bulls hump for a certain amount of time or cover a certain distance holding to the hump while the bull bucks trying to throw off its human tamer.A few tamers are successful while a few bulls run away untamed by their human tamers. All the action takes place within this small rectangular area of approximately 50 meters. The released bull runs from the "Vaadivasal(Start Gate)" at Mullai Nagar along this straight barricaded Tirupparankundram road towards the extreme other end about 1Km away at Semboorani tank which is the "Collection Point" where the free running bulls are reined in by its human handlers/owners. Prizes to be given to winners can be seen on the elevated platform. The owner of the best "Untameable Bull" was given a tractor and the best "Bull Tamer" a car.Besides,every team participating did get complimentary prizes like buckets/pressure cookers/mixers. A typical rural sport with a fan following of a entire state as well as tourists and television audience. |
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| " POLICE PATROL CAR" inside the Jallikattu arena is used to guide vagrant bulls back to the exit road to their handlers at "Collection Point". |
Sighted the landmark Masjid Town Hall Road Mosque which was surprisingly on the topmost floor of a building while the rest of the building was used for commercial purposes.This was followed by coffee at popular Sre Vari Bhavan on Town Hall road whose employee made coffee preparation a art.After coffee, inquiring directions was led to " Hotel Pearls" building situated in a narrow street adjacent to Town Hall road.
After the necessary formalities the receptionist Mr Shankaran allotted me " Room No 302" on the 4th floor.
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| Yours truly lucky to perch dangerously on the bamboo scaffolding next to the press team of photographers.Unbelievable crowd for a niche rural HUMAN- ANIMAL Sport. May the Bull be with you! |
Excellent spacious room with T.V and attached bathe in the heart of Madurai city.After a bathe got dressed and after consulting Mr Shankaran headed towards Meenakshi Amman Temple.It was a straight walk through narrow crowded streets and on approaching the temple the first glimpse was amazing .This wing of the temple structure was under maintenance and hence wooden scaffolding covered the entire facade of the structure. Non- Hindus and tourists are allowed inside the temple precincts for external viewing.Had to deposit my cell phone and shoes at a counter before entering the entrance gate.Better to take the services of a guide to explain various aspects and structures of the temple complex.There is a palatial museum at one corner of the temple complex whose entrance fee is only Rs 5 but by itself would require half a day for proper viewing.After.my brief tour of the temple complex viewing made my way back to the entrance and after collecting my deposited phone and shoes made my way back to the main entrance gate that prevents vehicles from entering the boundary circumference of the temple.There are numerous hawkers selling temple offerings as well as eatables.
Tasted two tender coconuts costing Rs 30 each, excellent and reminded me of the unique small coconuts of Sri Lanka.Next tasted the famous " Madurai Halwa" costing Rs 50 .
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| Common prizes of Stainless steel buckets ,pressure cooker, mixers given to participants of a competing team of Bull Tamers and successful individual untameable Bull owners. |
Walked the short distance to my hotel and relaxed.Later in the afternoon took final travel instructions from receptionist Mr Shankaran and walked towards " Periyar Bus terminus " one of the 3 large bus terminals of Madurai situated in the heart of the city in close proximity to the railway Junction.Was told to board bus " No 32 " to reach St Mary's Cathedral on E Veli street.After a long wait boarded a crowded rickety junk bus and after much inquiries a young lady told me that she would inform me the alighting point for " Mahal bus stop". Although it was only a Rs 6 bus fare for the 2 Km drive from Periyar bus terminus ,thanks to the traffic congestion on the narrow roads that the journey seemed double the distance.Finally reached " Mahal Stop" which is the bus stop for Thirumalai Nayakkar Palace and got a external view of this magnificent building.Walked across the road and after asking directions finally got a magnificent glimpse of St Mary's Cathedral also called Church of our Lady of Dolours.School had just finished and the compound of the church was filled with uniformed school children.The church was closed for cleaning and got a external look of the interior of this large Cathedral.There was also a hostel named " Britto hostel" inside the Cathedral grounds.Finally after walking along the circumference of the church grounds made my way onto the crowded road and boarded a shared auto rickshaw costing Rs 20 to Periyar Bus terminus.
Back at the hostel met new receptionist Mr Kannan and relaxed in my cosy room multitasking by simultaneously listening to T.V and doing the skeletal rough blogging of my travelogue.After 2 nights of almost just a hour or 2 hours sleep on the train bringing back memories of sailing years and the occasional curse of mid ship repairs forfeiting a day or 2 day's sleep in the process was hoping for my normal 4 hrs sleep.
Had to be as fresh as a spring chicken for the real life " Jallikattu " action that would begin from tomorrow at Avaniyapuram village of Madurai.May the bull be with you !
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| "EJAMAN" one of the prize winning untamable bulls at the Avaniyapuram Jallikattu. After the "Bull Run" the bull's horns are tied in a ritual method with a cloth. Akin to horse racing , "JALLIKATTU" is a "Human-Animal" sport. I personally feel "JALLIKATTU" is more dangerous than horse racing. |
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| A dangerous photo-shoot with "EJMAN" of Avaniyapuram Jallikattu.Very unpredictable and i took a risk holding "Ejman" the untamable bull . |
Tuesday (14/1/2024) Avaniyapuram Jallikattu in Madurai:- Thankfully after being awake for almost 2 nights on the Mumbai to Madurai train journey did get my 4 hrs sleep in plush " Room No 302" of " Pearls Hotel".At 0415 hrs got dressed up and headed out of the hotel towards Periyar Bus terminus.Enroute stopped at " KPS Coffee " restaurant for excellent unique Madurai coffee.Walked the short distance to Periyar Bus terminus which had a large crowd.After a waiting period of approx 15 minutes boarded the housefull bus to Avaniyapuram village,a distance of approximately 5 Km from Madurai city.With the help of a local alighted at the right bus stop and from there followed the crowd heading towards Avaniyapuram village.It was a long walk along a narrow street with the entire street blocked for local vehicle traffic.Heavy police force in attendance and finally arrived on the main village street which would be the venue for " Avaniyapuram Jallikattu- 2025".
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| " PALAMEDU JALLIKATTU " on Wednesday (15/1/2025)Main V.I.P PLATFORM "" Bull Tamers " gathered at Vaadivasal ( Gate) where the Bull is let loose into the Jallikattu arena.This particular bull had a "False Start" and is being redirected back into the "Vaadivasal"for a restart.The prizes of a car, tractor,generator and motorcycle are kept on the platform from where i was viewing the Jallikattu. Cost me Rs 400 for a standing spot on this viewing platform |
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| A Bull being walked to the Palamedu Jallikattu venue by its human handlers. Requires 2 to 3 people to control a bull. |
There were numerous ambulances as well as medical teams .There was a V.I.P stage set up at one end of the street having a elevated view of the Jallikattu while spectators lined up along the barricaded fencing along the street akin to viewing a "Formula-1 car race.Got a close up view of the young contestants who were squatting in a single file waiting their turn to enter the " JALLIKATTU ARENA".In fact hilariously I stood in the queue mistaking it to be the entrance for spectators until a policeman shunted me from the queue of mostly teenagers.Finally managed my way close to the " V.I.P Stage " and stood along the railing as a common spectator.I presumed that the Jallikattu was held in a large enclosed area and surprised to see a entire street Double barricaded and isolated as the Jallikattu arena.There were a few buildings on either side of this street which gave it's owners premium seats to view the Jallikattu. Reminded me again of Pamplona in Spain where owners of flats facing the street along which the bulls ran made a fortune during the week long San Fermin festival, charging tourists a tidy sum which in 2024 ranged from US $ 150 - 195/person for using their house as a viewing gallery.I wondered if the same entrepreneurship was prevalent at Avaniyapuram village Jallikattu with the sum charged not in US Dollars but Indian rupees according to Indian wages and Indian cost of living. May the Bull be with you.
I would have paid a premium to be allowed to view the Jallikattu from the gallery of one of these buildings.Finally at approximately 0645 the first bull was released onto the street arena and the action of taming the bull began.
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| View of the housefull temporary Grandstands at Palamedu Jallikattu. A Motorcycle and generator as prizes can be seen on our Grandstand. |
Akin to a conveyor belt system, one after the other each bull was released from the enclosure next to the " V.I.P platform" and headed straight to the opposite end of the road head butting or bucking off their human tamers.Just a few managed to hold on to the bulls hump for a few meters but majority of times the bulls managed to throw down their human adversary or scare them away by charging at great speed out of the Vaadivasal .A few bulls just seemed uninterested once released onto the arena and had to be dragged away by rope towards the exit on the other end of the street called "Collection Point", about 1 Km away from the Vaadivasal..At times a police armed vehicle was used to corner a ferocious stranded bull and guide it towards the exit by means of using the vehicle as a shield.Prizes consisting of a stainless steel bucket container and a pressure cooker or grinder mixer were given to " Bull Tamers" who could hug the bull to a certain distance .All the bull tamers had t-shirts with photo's of State Political leaders and their own participating serial number.Saw a bull tamer who had to be taken off the arena street on a stretcher,a very dangerous extreme sport.
Saddest viewing was of a bull that just got stalled in its tracks after being released into the arena.It then sat down and refused to budge.Ropes were tied to it to force it to stand up and move but it just wouldn't budge.The police patrol vehicle entered and the bull lay prone almost unconscious.
Finally the " Bull Ambulance van" which is similar to a horse Ambulance arrived and the bull was hauled into the Ambulance.I presume it either had a heart attack or broke a leg.
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| Gifts like plastic chairs are given to the bull tamers and bull owners after release of every bull at Palamedu Jallikattu. |
Although the entire Jallikattu commentary was in Tamil language I didn't feel bored but just uncomfortable at times due to lack of proper viewing facilities.A few French tourists witnessed the Jallikattu for about a hour and i was definitely sure that they made a early exit due to the uncomfortable viewing gallery.I didn't spot any other Caucasian tourists and Avaniyapuram Jallikattu was definitely a total local spectator sport.Finally at 1245 hrs decided to.make my way back to home away from home " Pearls hotel".It was a long walk towards the main bus stop and on the way came across a team returning back home from the Avaniyapuram Jallikattu with their prized undefeated Natumadu breed bull named " Ejaman".This 4 year old fierce bull has never been mounted and took a photograph along with " Ejaman ". All Jallikattu bull owners name their bulls akin to racehorse or normal house pets and never treat them as common disposable farm animals.Finally after a long walk reached the bus stop and luckily got a shared autorickshaw that dropped me at Periyar on a fare of Rs 30.
Relaxed in my hotel room and at approximately 1630 hrs walked out of the hotel with destination being " Murugan Idli veg" restaurant. Lunch cum dinner at Murugan restaurant was " Masala Dosa" followed by " Onion uthapam", both served on banana leaves and in a different manner in comparison to restaurants in my home city of Mumbai. Returning back to the hotel encountered a heavy drizzle of rain and hoped it wouldn't rain tomorrow at Palamedu Jallikattu .
Back at the hotel as usual relaxed multitasking the Internet and hotel T.V. Next day reading the " Deccan Herald" newspaper read the tragic news of a Bull tamer Shri Naveen.Kumar , 22 years of age was gored to death while 10 other tamers sustained injuries at Avaniyapuram Jallikattu.Shri Malayandi, the owner of the bull adjudged the best for successfully dodging many tamers received a tractor as first prize and Shri Karthik was named the outstanding bull tamer for subduing as many as 19 bulls for which he got a car as the first prize.
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| Palamedu Jallikattu began in the morning and closed in the evening.Throughout the day bull owners/ handlers would arrive at the venue with their decorated bulls smeared with turmeric paste . |
Having witnessed the ferocity of the bulls its unbelievable that Kartik subdued not one or two but 19 bulls. A young man, Ranjit Kumar of Avaniyapuram, won Rs 1 lakh cash prize for embracing a ferocious bull. Also, prizes were distributed for other category of winners, which included a motorcycle.There were petty skirmishes between a bull owner and bull tamers and i presume a reason for the police charging onto the arena at times.For a niche village sport it's unbelievable witnessing the popularity of Jallikattu among the average common Tamilian. Avaniyapuram Jallikattu is held on a lesser scale in comparison to Palemadu and Analakely .
Wednesday (15/1/2025)Palamedu Jallikatttu:- As a insomniac at times my sleeping patterns are irregular and hence woke up late at 0530 hrs.After my toilet routines quickly got dressed and headed out of the hotel.Had a cup of coffee at familiar " KPS Coffee" restaurant which was house full with customers.At Periyar Bus terminus inquired the bus to distant Palamedu village and was guided to platform No 3 of this huge bus terminus.A aged local guided me with language being a major problem.
Finally after waiting at the bus platform at 0630 hrs our bus No 57 arrived and myself the lone tourist along with locals boarded the bus.Bus fare was Rs 33 for the 23 Km journey through the beautiful Madurai countryside of paddy fields and hillocks.
Finally reached Palamedu village which akin to Avaniyapuram yesterday was heavily barricaded with the police force very prominent.Barring language I was now accustomed to the procedure of the Jallikattu festival and followed the crowd along with a few bull handlers towards the main " Jallikattu Arena" venue.Was surprised to see some ferocious bulls requiring 3 handlers each with a rope to control them while walking along the road.The sight of the Palamedu " Jallikattu Street" with its fenced barricades and temporary erected wooded stadium along the street packed to capacity made me wonder if I could even get a glimpse of the Bulls and tamers .Came across a large screen erected at a corner of the venue that broadcast the Jallikattu live and which would be my refuge in case I couldn't get a place in the stands or on the ground for viewing the Jallikattu.Something is better than nothing.
Finally after waiting at the bus platform at 0630 hrs our bus No 57 arrived and myself the lone tourist along with locals boarded the bus.Bus fare was Rs 33 for the 23 Km journey through the beautiful Madurai countryside of paddy fields and hillocks.
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| PALAMEDU JALLIKATTU shown " LIVE" on screens outside the temporary main viewing stadium. |
Finally reached Palamedu village which akin to Avaniyapuram yesterday was heavily barricaded with the police force very prominent.Barring language I was now accustomed to the procedure of the Jallikattu festival and followed the crowd along with a few bull handlers towards the main " Jallikattu Arena" venue.Was surprised to see some ferocious bulls requiring 3 handlers each with a rope to control them while walking along the road.The sight of the Palamedu " Jallikattu Street" with its fenced barricades and temporary erected wooded stadium along the street packed to capacity made me wonder if I could even get a glimpse of the Bulls and tamers .Came across a large screen erected at a corner of the venue that broadcast the Jallikattu live and which would be my refuge in case I couldn't get a place in the stands or on the ground for viewing the Jallikattu.Something is better than nothing.
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| " Bull Tamers " of a group awaiting their turn to enter the Palamedu Jallikattu arena.After every hour a new team of " Bull Tamers " enter the arena.Although the team wear the same colours they all compete individually to try to hug and tame a ferocious Bull.Strict discipline and entry checks are maintained for Bull as well as " Bull Tamers " competing in the Jallikattu. |
Just didnt come across any seats for sale for tourists akin to a normal stadium and luckily i made my way right next to the main V.I.P stage and on payment of Rs 400 managed to get a standing viewpoint on the elevated temporary stadium with a excellent close up view of the Jallikattu bull's and bull tamers.The Palamedu Jallikattu event was flagged off at around 7:45 am by Tamil Nadu minister for commercial taxes and registration, P Moorthy, in the presence of Madurai district collector M.S .Sangeetha and other officials after the oath was administered to the participants.
A absolute housefull crowd and I was standing behind the stage on which the grand prizes were displayed
The prizes on display were a 1) TVS motorcycle 2) Electric Generator 2) Nissan Car and 3) Tractor.Normally in India such large crowds are only seen at cricket or football matches and never expected such a large crowd for a rural village sport.Spotted a small group of Caucasian tourists seated on chairs on the grandstand on the opposite side of the road, probably tourists from a guided tour group .Next time hope a special temporary grandstand for visiting tourists is erected which could be a source of tourist income through tickets.Today unlike yesterday I had a excellent close up view of the bull tamers and bulls and understood the basics of this ultra extreme and very dangerous animal sport.
All "Bull Tamer Contestants" competed individually in a large single group wearing the same coloured shirts but different numbers akin to any team sport.Every group team was given one hour inside the " JALLIKATTU ARENA" to tame the bulls that were released from the Vaadivasal..
Hence after every hour a different team entered the arena for Taming the bulls.Observed a bull that was not released properly from the Vaadivasal (Start Gate) with it's handler arguing with the sport administrator's to get the bull reinstated in the start stall and retake the run .This was done with the bull bolting like a rocket from the Vaadivasal scaring away its human tamer's..With decades of horse racing punting and viewership under my belt and accustomed to occasionally seeing jockeys fall and horses die on the race track ,besides, punters like me at times losing a fortune on races which is financially killing akin to "Indian Stock Market crash -2024" still found the sport of " JALLIKATTU "extremely dangerous for both human tamers and the bulls.No wonder in ancient times this sport was used to judge the valour and marriage prospects of a man.At times a bull once released into the arena would not run but turn back with head lowered to face it's human tamers, akin to a bull facing a matador in a Spanish bull ring. .
Weather was excellent, cloudy and cool and was also hoping it wouldn't rain.The actual contest between bull and human tamer takes place within approximately 50 meters from the Vaadivasal .
This part of the street where the main duels take place is carpeted with soft waste coconut coir which acts as a soft matted surface to prevent injuries to man as well as animal.Finally at 1300 hrs after satisfying my practical knowledge of Jallikattu made my way out of this amazing one day temporary stadium. Later through the print media read the news of Parthiban, a bullfighter from Natham who won an eight-lakh-value car as the first prize after taming 14 bulls in the final round of the Palamedu Jallikattu competition .A total of 930 bulls participated in the competition, and eight rounds were held with the participation of 400 bull tamer players. In these eight rounds, 32 contestants were selected and played in the final round.On behalf of Tamil Nadu Deputy Chief Minister Udayanidhi Stalin, a car worth Rs 8 lakhs was given as a gift. Tulshiram from the Manjhampatti area tamed 12 bulls and was awarded a two-wheeler worth one lakh rupees as the second prize. Pothumbu Prabhakaran, who tamed 11 bulls, was awarded an electric two-wheeler as a third prize. As for yours truly ,could apply as a Phd student on the subject of human- animal sports which includes ," Horse-racing" ," Cockfighting" , "Kambala( Buffalo Racing) and now " Jallikattu" .
Outside the main stadium venue it was a total carnival atmosphere with bulls arriving and departing while people patronized various eatable stalls.Had to walk a long way past the police barricades to the bus stop.Finally after a long wait boarded a absolutely packed bus also realizing that I had not softened with age and a little wealth although very much overweight .So far so good.May the bull be with you ! Relaxed in my home away from home "Pearls Hotel".Dinner was Masala Dosa at prominent " Sree Sabrees" restaurant just opposite " Pearls hotel" followed by " Jigarthanda" drink as dessert.
All "Bull Tamer Contestants" competed individually in a large single group wearing the same coloured shirts but different numbers akin to any team sport.Every group team was given one hour inside the " JALLIKATTU ARENA" to tame the bulls that were released from the Vaadivasal..
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| Behind the scenes at Palamedu Jallikattu. |
Hence after every hour a different team entered the arena for Taming the bulls.Observed a bull that was not released properly from the Vaadivasal (Start Gate) with it's handler arguing with the sport administrator's to get the bull reinstated in the start stall and retake the run .This was done with the bull bolting like a rocket from the Vaadivasal scaring away its human tamer's..With decades of horse racing punting and viewership under my belt and accustomed to occasionally seeing jockeys fall and horses die on the race track ,besides, punters like me at times losing a fortune on races which is financially killing akin to "Indian Stock Market crash -2024" still found the sport of " JALLIKATTU "extremely dangerous for both human tamers and the bulls.No wonder in ancient times this sport was used to judge the valour and marriage prospects of a man.At times a bull once released into the arena would not run but turn back with head lowered to face it's human tamers, akin to a bull facing a matador in a Spanish bull ring. .
Weather was excellent, cloudy and cool and was also hoping it wouldn't rain.The actual contest between bull and human tamer takes place within approximately 50 meters from the Vaadivasal .
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| View of Palamedu Jallikattu temporary stadium.Among the 3 Jallikattu crowd attendances at Avaniyapuram, Palamedu and Alanganallur in Madurai district, it's Palamedu Jallikattu that has maximum temporary stadium capacity and attracts maximum crowd. |
This part of the street where the main duels take place is carpeted with soft waste coconut coir which acts as a soft matted surface to prevent injuries to man as well as animal.Finally at 1300 hrs after satisfying my practical knowledge of Jallikattu made my way out of this amazing one day temporary stadium. Later through the print media read the news of Parthiban, a bullfighter from Natham who won an eight-lakh-value car as the first prize after taming 14 bulls in the final round of the Palamedu Jallikattu competition .A total of 930 bulls participated in the competition, and eight rounds were held with the participation of 400 bull tamer players. In these eight rounds, 32 contestants were selected and played in the final round.On behalf of Tamil Nadu Deputy Chief Minister Udayanidhi Stalin, a car worth Rs 8 lakhs was given as a gift. Tulshiram from the Manjhampatti area tamed 12 bulls and was awarded a two-wheeler worth one lakh rupees as the second prize. Pothumbu Prabhakaran, who tamed 11 bulls, was awarded an electric two-wheeler as a third prize. As for yours truly ,could apply as a Phd student on the subject of human- animal sports which includes ," Horse-racing" ," Cockfighting" , "Kambala( Buffalo Racing) and now " Jallikattu" .
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| At Palamedu Jallikattu with prize winning untamable bull " PETHAI" and its handler. |
Outside the main stadium venue it was a total carnival atmosphere with bulls arriving and departing while people patronized various eatable stalls.Had to walk a long way past the police barricades to the bus stop.Finally after a long wait boarded a absolutely packed bus also realizing that I had not softened with age and a little wealth although very much overweight .So far so good.May the bull be with you ! Relaxed in my home away from home "Pearls Hotel".Dinner was Masala Dosa at prominent " Sree Sabrees" restaurant just opposite " Pearls hotel" followed by " Jigarthanda" drink as dessert.
Thursday(16/2/2035) Alanganallur Jallikattu :- As usual was awake early and after my normal routines took the familiar walk to " KPS Coffee" in the dark of the early morning. After 2 cups of coffee walked the short distance to Periyar Bus terminus. Inquiring about the bus was lucky to be at the right place at the right tome with the bus to Alanganallur about to depart.
Boarded the bus and ticket was Rs 16 for the 16 Km journey.
On alighting at Alanganallur was surprised to be turned back by the police stating that the venue was absolutely houseful with police not allowing anyone into the Jallikattu venue.Seems local spectators had occupied the makeshift stadium stands at 0400 hrs,unbelievable, but true. Followed the locals in the darkness of early morning and initially parked myself at the road fence railings like the locals.Hilarious situation at my young age but then i had no choice and it was better than buying a return ticket back to Madurai.Later the police arriving with lathi sticks told everyone to vacate the fencing area and that seemed the end of my travel all the way from Mumbai to watch the best Jallikattu of Tamil Nadu. Decades of travel experience paid dividends and suddenly realized a residential building was at prime location facing the road which was the Jallikattu venue.Requested the owner's employee's to allow me onto the terrace as he had allowed a few others on payment of a entrance fee.Finally he allowed me on the terrace on payment of a princely Rs 1000 ,cheap in comparison to the U S $ 150-195 i would have to pay if in Pamplona in Spain. May the Bull be with you..Excellent view of the Jallikattu from this 3 storey building that was just 75 meters from the main Jallikattu arena facing the " V.I.P Stage" on the opposite side and adjacent to the temporary stadium built for common viewers.
The world-famous Alanganallur Jallikattu was inaugurated by Deputy Chief Minister Udhayanidhi Stalin and this year’s competition featured a total of 989 bulls after screening by veterinary doctors and as many as 492 tamers tried their luck after completing formal procedures and medical tests.A unforgiving sport as far as fitness and skill is concerned.
Some of the Bulls were owned by prominent personalities and political leaders.
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| Alanganallur Jallikattu held on Thursday (16/1/2024) and a view of the " V.I.P platform " from my viewpoint on the terrace of a 3 storey building.Alanganallur is the 3rd and last of the 3 Jallikattu's held in Madurai district as also the most prestigious.In Alanganallur the "Vaadivasal(gate)" is at the side of the "V.I.P Platform" and not below as in Avaniyapuram and Palamedu .The venue also has a small temporary stadium for common public viewing. Deputy Chief Minister Udhayanidhi Stalin along with his son Inbanithi flagged off the competition. |
Boarded the bus and ticket was Rs 16 for the 16 Km journey.
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| Excellent " Birds eye view" of Alanganallur Jallikattu from the terrace of this building. Cost me a princely Rs 1000 for entrance. |
On alighting at Alanganallur was surprised to be turned back by the police stating that the venue was absolutely houseful with police not allowing anyone into the Jallikattu venue.Seems local spectators had occupied the makeshift stadium stands at 0400 hrs,unbelievable, but true. Followed the locals in the darkness of early morning and initially parked myself at the road fence railings like the locals.Hilarious situation at my young age but then i had no choice and it was better than buying a return ticket back to Madurai.Later the police arriving with lathi sticks told everyone to vacate the fencing area and that seemed the end of my travel all the way from Mumbai to watch the best Jallikattu of Tamil Nadu. Decades of travel experience paid dividends and suddenly realized a residential building was at prime location facing the road which was the Jallikattu venue.Requested the owner's employee's to allow me onto the terrace as he had allowed a few others on payment of a entrance fee.Finally he allowed me on the terrace on payment of a princely Rs 1000 ,cheap in comparison to the U S $ 150-195 i would have to pay if in Pamplona in Spain. May the Bull be with you..Excellent view of the Jallikattu from this 3 storey building that was just 75 meters from the main Jallikattu arena facing the " V.I.P Stage" on the opposite side and adjacent to the temporary stadium built for common viewers.
The world-famous Alanganallur Jallikattu was inaugurated by Deputy Chief Minister Udhayanidhi Stalin and this year’s competition featured a total of 989 bulls after screening by veterinary doctors and as many as 492 tamers tried their luck after completing formal procedures and medical tests.A unforgiving sport as far as fitness and skill is concerned.
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| " Exit Route" of the Bulls once they are released from the " VAADIVASAL " into the Jallikattu arena where Bull tamers test their skill and luck in subduing the bull.The bull runs down this " Double Barricade" road to be collected by their handler and owner at the end of this 1 km long road.As the bulls are violent they head butt anyone at the collection point. 2 spectators lost their lives at Alanganallur Jallikattu at this same " Collection Point " where they were fatally gored. |
Some of the Bulls were owned by prominent personalities and political leaders.
Having watched Avaniyapuram and Palamedu Jallikattu's in quick succession i was now familiar with this extreme man- animal sport except for the rules of playing this sport which is held in multiple rounds.Every hour a new batch of " Bull Tamer Contestants" enter the arena and at the same time the spectators in the common public stands were told to vacate to allow the next group of spectators to view the Jallikattu for the next hour. Bulls were brought in from various locations, including Madurai.This time the common prizes were not stainless steel containers. Pressure cookers or chairs but cycles which are more expensive proving the fact that Alanganallur Jallikattu was the numero uno Jallikattu of the State of Tamil Nadu A "CYCLE" was strung on a advertisement rope facing the "V.I.P Platform" that ran from east to west of the main Alanganallur Jallikattu arena .The crowd at the temporary grandstand at Palamedu Jallikattu was definitely larger than Alanganallur as Palamadu had larger area . After exiting the sacred Vaadivasal (Starting gate), bulls face a strategically designed left turn in Alanganallur instead of a straight path as in Avaniyapuram and Palamedu Jallikattu arena's.This unexpected twist is meant to momentarily disorient the bull, extending their time in the arena and offering a greater spectacle between bull and bull tamers for the crowd.
According to my observation the bulls competing in Alanganallur Jallikattu seemed more fierce and many bulls instead of running away from their human tamers confronted them in the arena akin to a bull charging at a matador in a Spanish bull ring.
I was at the venue till 1500 hrs absolutely engrossed in this extreme sport and since the view from the building terrace was excellent was just glued to this non - stop game between man and bull.
If the venue was closer to Madurai city and myself literate in Tamil language then would have stayed till the end of the Jallikattu which was 1800 hrs.Made my way out of the terrace onto the ground floor and making my way towards the main road was amazed at the queue for the hourly slots for accommodation inside the temporary stadium.Later through the print media learnt that Abi Sithar from Puvanthi emerged as the champion bull tamer , taming an impressive 20 bulls, while " Bahubali" , a bull from Salem, was crowned the best bull out of 989 competing bulls for its resilience and spectacular performance in the arena. To be declared a winner, tamers must either hold onto the Thimil (shoulder hump) as the bull runs 50 meters or maintain their grip through three full spins. If the bull evades capture, it is declared the winner, adding to the thrill of the sport. This year, the Alanganallur competition was divided into 10 rounds, with 50 tamers attempting to tame bulls released one by one through the Vaadi Vaasal. Winners received various prizes, including gold coins, bicycles, refrigerators, and household items. The top bull tamer was awarded a car on behalf of the Deputy Chief Minister, and the owner of the best bull received a tractor on behalf of Chief Minister MK Stalin.
As for me viewing the sport for the first time was amazed by its popularity and animal rights organizations calling for its ban seems surprising considering it's popularity among the grass roots Tamil population.
Jallikattu is definitely here to stay in Tamil Nadu akin to Kambala(Buffalo Racing) in the neighbouring State of Karnataka.
A part of the culture of the people of these states although cattle as a draught animal is losing it's importance in rural agriculture due to mechanization of cultivation and harvesting. It was a long walk to the main road where a T.V screen was installed for people to watch the Jallikattu live which would have been my venue if I had not gotten entry onto the terrace building.After ages spotted a hawker selling jack fruit and purchased the same,one of the best jackfruit I ate after ages.The pineapples and now the jackfruit of Madurai are excellent.Was lucky to get a bus immediately and during the drive to Periyar Bus terminus got a view of the Alanganallur countryside that had rice fields and a little further approaching the city a bizarre view of scattered cultivated rice fields with patches of concrete housing at its periphery.Wonder how long these rice fields would last before being consumed by the concrete jungle of Madurai's expanding suburbs.Change is permanent. Relaxed in my hotel ,the weather pleasant and cool.Dinner was at Ananda restaurant.
According to my observation the bulls competing in Alanganallur Jallikattu seemed more fierce and many bulls instead of running away from their human tamers confronted them in the arena akin to a bull charging at a matador in a Spanish bull ring.
I was at the venue till 1500 hrs absolutely engrossed in this extreme sport and since the view from the building terrace was excellent was just glued to this non - stop game between man and bull.
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| A Bull handler taking his bull to the " Collection Point " at the end of this road .The bull gets violent and aggravated and lassoed if possible .Notice that the handler himself is scared of his own familiar pet bull. A very dangerous extreme " Human - Animal" sport. |
If the venue was closer to Madurai city and myself literate in Tamil language then would have stayed till the end of the Jallikattu which was 1800 hrs.Made my way out of the terrace onto the ground floor and making my way towards the main road was amazed at the queue for the hourly slots for accommodation inside the temporary stadium.Later through the print media learnt that Abi Sithar from Puvanthi emerged as the champion bull tamer , taming an impressive 20 bulls, while " Bahubali" , a bull from Salem, was crowned the best bull out of 989 competing bulls for its resilience and spectacular performance in the arena. To be declared a winner, tamers must either hold onto the Thimil (shoulder hump) as the bull runs 50 meters or maintain their grip through three full spins. If the bull evades capture, it is declared the winner, adding to the thrill of the sport. This year, the Alanganallur competition was divided into 10 rounds, with 50 tamers attempting to tame bulls released one by one through the Vaadi Vaasal. Winners received various prizes, including gold coins, bicycles, refrigerators, and household items. The top bull tamer was awarded a car on behalf of the Deputy Chief Minister, and the owner of the best bull received a tractor on behalf of Chief Minister MK Stalin.
As for me viewing the sport for the first time was amazed by its popularity and animal rights organizations calling for its ban seems surprising considering it's popularity among the grass roots Tamil population.
Jallikattu is definitely here to stay in Tamil Nadu akin to Kambala(Buffalo Racing) in the neighbouring State of Karnataka.
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| Entire town of Alanganallur decorated in a carnival celebration of Jallikattu. |
A part of the culture of the people of these states although cattle as a draught animal is losing it's importance in rural agriculture due to mechanization of cultivation and harvesting. It was a long walk to the main road where a T.V screen was installed for people to watch the Jallikattu live which would have been my venue if I had not gotten entry onto the terrace building.After ages spotted a hawker selling jack fruit and purchased the same,one of the best jackfruit I ate after ages.The pineapples and now the jackfruit of Madurai are excellent.Was lucky to get a bus immediately and during the drive to Periyar Bus terminus got a view of the Alanganallur countryside that had rice fields and a little further approaching the city a bizarre view of scattered cultivated rice fields with patches of concrete housing at its periphery.Wonder how long these rice fields would last before being consumed by the concrete jungle of Madurai's expanding suburbs.Change is permanent. Relaxed in my hotel ,the weather pleasant and cool.Dinner was at Ananda restaurant.
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| Thirumalai Nayakkar Palace in Madurai. Completed in 1636 by Tirumala Nayaka(1623 -1659) King of Madurai Nayak Dynasty |
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| At Mahatma Gandhi Museum in Madurai. |
Friday (17/1/2025) Departure Madurai :-
The museum was closed due to repairs and just strolled around the vicinity visiting the " Gandhian Literature Society" which was a small building housing a wide assortments of books as well as souvenirs. There was a exhibition of cotton hosiery in the garden adjacent to Gandhi Museum.
The campus of the Madurai medical college was adjacent to Mahatma Gandhi Museum, a plush locality of Madurai.
Finally decided to walk back to the bus stop and
The campus of the Madurai medical college was adjacent to Mahatma Gandhi Museum, a plush locality of Madurai.
Finally decided to walk back to the bus stop and
after boarding a shared autorickshaw costing Rs 30/ passenger got to do some sightseeing of Madurai.
We drove over the iconic Albert Victor Overbridge built on the river Vaigai that connects the North and South ends of Madurai separated by the Vaigai river that flows through Madurai city. Alighted at Periyar bus terminus. From Periyar Bus terminus boarded the " No 33" bus and alighted at Thirumalai Nayakkar Palace.
Paying a entrance fee of Rs 10 my next sightseeing was this magnificent Thirumalai Nayakkar Palace where I had entered at the right time and got to see a exotic Tamil dance performance for tourists in the dance hall of this palatial palac.Next visited St Mary's Cathedral situated on the next road opposite Thirumalai Nayakkar Palace.
Lunch was in a authentic Tamil restaurant " Pondimuniandi Mess" where right from the name to the menu was in Tamil language.After lunch walked 2 Km all the way to Meenakshi Temple which had a unbelievable queue of devotees waiting to enter the temple for Darshan.Purchased a kilogram of Madurai halwa and made my way back to Thirumalai Nayakkar Palace to view the sound and light show.Sadly the show was cancelled for today and finally after visiting St Mary's Cathedral boarded a shared autorickshaw and alighted at Periyar bus terminus.
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| Madurai Convention Centre. |
We drove over the iconic Albert Victor Overbridge built on the river Vaigai that connects the North and South ends of Madurai separated by the Vaigai river that flows through Madurai city. Alighted at Periyar bus terminus. From Periyar Bus terminus boarded the " No 33" bus and alighted at Thirumalai Nayakkar Palace.
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| Main entrance to Thirumalai Nayakkar Palace |
Paying a entrance fee of Rs 10 my next sightseeing was this magnificent Thirumalai Nayakkar Palace where I had entered at the right time and got to see a exotic Tamil dance performance for tourists in the dance hall of this palatial palac.Next visited St Mary's Cathedral situated on the next road opposite Thirumalai Nayakkar Palace.
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| Street next to Meenakshi Amman Temple. Madurai is a very densely populated city. |
Lunch was in a authentic Tamil restaurant " Pondimuniandi Mess" where right from the name to the menu was in Tamil language.After lunch walked 2 Km all the way to Meenakshi Temple which had a unbelievable queue of devotees waiting to enter the temple for Darshan.Purchased a kilogram of Madurai halwa and made my way back to Thirumalai Nayakkar Palace to view the sound and light show.Sadly the show was cancelled for today and finally after visiting St Mary's Cathedral boarded a shared autorickshaw and alighted at Periyar bus terminus.
Wound up the evening with a " Black Pearl" beer in " Vaigai Sports club" bar situated in close proximity to " Pearls Hotel" my address in Madurai.Relaxed in the hotel's reception lobby and finally bid adieu to " Pearls hotel" and walked the short distance to the railway station. Inquired regarding arrival platform of my train and made myself comfortable in the " Passenger Waiting lounge".
" JALLIKATTU FEVER" was in the air and a T.V screen was continuously broadcasting the arrival of trains at Madurai station as also advertising the victory in 2017 of the people of Tamil Nadu in overturning the Supreme Court ban on " Jallikattu " through a public protest movement in Chennai.
Flashes of this successful protest kept replaying on the T.V in-between information of train arrival times.My train " 17236 / NCJ SMVB EXP" arrived early at 2330 hrs on platform No 1 and entered compartment B3 onto Berth 53.Excellent accomodation and pleasant ambient temp of the A/ C unit, not too cold or too warm.A decent 3 hrs sleep and in the morning on Saturday the train reached Sir M Visvesvaraya Terminal railway station located in Baiyyapanahalli, Bengaluru.In Bengaluru stayed overnight at " The Hosteller " opposite Brigade Tower on Brigade Road. On Sunday (19/1/2025) boarded the " Udyan Express" in the evening and reached Mumbai the next day,a almost 24 hrs travel journey.End of one of my most unplanned nomadic local travel within India as well as unbelievingly erratic train travel ticketing fiasco from Mumbai to Madurai that resulted in almost two sleepless nights.Alls well that ends well and as usual back home in Mumbai got back to daily boring household chores besides writing my travelogue.
" JALLIKATTU FEVER" was in the air and a T.V screen was continuously broadcasting the arrival of trains at Madurai station as also advertising the victory in 2017 of the people of Tamil Nadu in overturning the Supreme Court ban on " Jallikattu " through a public protest movement in Chennai.
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| Don't leave Madurai without tasting South Indian snacks at " Murugan Idli veg ". |
Flashes of this successful protest kept replaying on the T.V in-between information of train arrival times.My train " 17236 / NCJ SMVB EXP" arrived early at 2330 hrs on platform No 1 and entered compartment B3 onto Berth 53.Excellent accomodation and pleasant ambient temp of the A/ C unit, not too cold or too warm.A decent 3 hrs sleep and in the morning on Saturday the train reached Sir M Visvesvaraya Terminal railway station located in Baiyyapanahalli, Bengaluru.In Bengaluru stayed overnight at " The Hosteller " opposite Brigade Tower on Brigade Road. On Sunday (19/1/2025) boarded the " Udyan Express" in the evening and reached Mumbai the next day,a almost 24 hrs travel journey.End of one of my most unplanned nomadic local travel within India as well as unbelievingly erratic train travel ticketing fiasco from Mumbai to Madurai that resulted in almost two sleepless nights.Alls well that ends well and as usual back home in Mumbai got back to daily boring household chores besides writing my travelogue.
